Hot Dogs, Knishes and Death
In my final column for the Jewish Journal today, I got the chance to thank publicly many of the people who helped, inspired and supported me over the years. Marlene Adler Marks was one of them. She was managing editor when I started at the Journal. She wrote a weekly column called “A Woman’s Voice” […]
1:20 PM, Biriyani Kebob House, Los Angeles
When we walked into Biriyani Kabob House in a Koreatown strip mall, the owner was on the floor, head down, in Muslim prayer. The Latino cook pointed at him. “Wait for him,” he said. Jake Tapper was on a large, loud TV, talking about the hate march in Charlottesville. My guest was a Pakistani journalist. We ordered chapli kebab, […]
How to make blintzes: A video tutorial
FOR THE BLINTZES: – 1 cup flour – 2 tbsp. sugar – 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract – 1/2 tsp. salt – 3 eggs – 1 1/4 cups whole milk – 1 tbsp. vegetable oil FOR THE FILLING: – 1 lb. ricotta cheese, at room temperature – 2 tbsp sour cream or mascarpone – 3 egg yolks […]
On Passover, Why Do Jews Ban Leavening, of All Things?
My editorial column this week is a reflection on Passover. I know the rabbis teach that we do without leavening during Passover to remind us of the time we were slaves, but in this column I ask, Is there a deeper reason behind the reason? I write: I started making sourdough bread in college […]
Chocolate Walnut Passover Torte with Chocolate Honey Glaze
Sure, they say the afikomen is dessert, but we all know that a piece of matzo isn’t going to satisfy anyone’s sweet tooth. Here is a sweet additional treat that doesn’t use highly processed shortenings. Ingredients 1 cup chopped walnuts 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup sugar, divided 9 oz. 70% bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 1/8 […]
Wexler's Deli Coming to Century City
News of the death of the deli continues to be premature. Wexler’s Deli announced today that it will be opening up its third location in Century City. The deli that is on the cutting edge of the artisanal Jewish food movement will add to its original Grand Central Market location and subsequent Santa Monica outlet […]
"Gefilte" Ceviche
Many people just don’t like gefilte fish, especially the jarred commercial stuff. If you live where there is fresh fish and great produce, like, say LA, you can make what most people do like: ceviche. Gefilte means “stuffed.” Here, the fish is stuffed beneath a smooth avocado puree. This recipe, adapted from Casa Crespo in Oaxaca, […]
Cooking Moroccan Brains
“Don’t waste a thing!” Meme Suissa declared, in French, as she swept up two errant leaves of flat leaf parsley and tossed them into the pot. Meme, who is in her eighties, was teaching me to cook cervelle a la maroccaine, or brains, Moroccan-style, in the kitchen of her son David. It’s a dish she […]
Life is delicious on Trump-free Tijuana getaway
I escaped. A lot of celebrities — and some of you — talked about fleeing the country if Donald Trump were elected. I actually did it. As a post-election pall settled over Los Angeles, I called my daughter at college and asked if she wanted to go with me. “Where?” she asked. “Anywhere,” I said. […]
Moroccan Candied Eggplant
My partner David Suissa returned from a family Passover in Montreal with a gift for me from his mother, Meme Suissa: berenjenitas en dulce. Moroccan candied eggplants are a post-Passover treat, laid out on a groaning table of sweets for the celebration of Mimouna. The last time I tasted them was in a Moroccan Jewish home […]